Archive for February, 2010

Trusses

Thursday, February 25th, 2010
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We ordered the trusses from a company out of Albuquerque called Champion Truss. It is a rather large company so I thought we would be guaranteed nice trusses, since that is all they do. But, unfortunately, you can’t assume anything, and we should probably have researched it more.
When the trusses were delivered, the first thing we noticed was that the end trusses were made to the wrong dimensions, and the bottom truss was smashed to bits. The company asked us to send them a picture of the broken truss and sent us a signed architect drawing showing us how to fix it. The only problem was that the drawing described a part of the truss that wasn’t even broken.
My husband can pretty much fix anything, but a truss that is completely smashed and splintered is beyond his capasity to fix. So he got a hold of the owner of the company and the owner agreed to come and see for himself what the trusses were like.
As they went through the trusses, one by one, they discovered another truss with a break through the top cord, even though it had a stamp of approval on it as well!
Basically, they ended up replacing five of the trusses, but the owner insisted that the end trusses were fine (which they were not!), so we didn’t get those replaced, and it caused two weeks of hassles trying to fit the out riggers on trusses that were made to the wrong dimensions.
Anyway, a week later, the new trusses were supposed to be delivered. The driver showed up in a semi just as the sun was setting, and my husband had to rig up lights and try to back him in as far as he could up the driveway. They had to unload the trusses by hand, and as the driver was leaving, he took a 20′ tree out on the way out of the driveway! Needless to say, my husband was fuming. After negotiating with the company for another week to see if they would give us some kind of compensation, the owner basically told my husband that it was his fault that the tree had come down, because he had tricked the driver into a difficult position, and that if we wanted to go to court, this was the story he was going to stick to…
Anyway, we got the trusses up onto the walls, and they were so twisted and warped that Nigell got really depressed. Some were higher than others, some were longer than others. They didn’t even bother to measure accurately that the 2×4’s on the end trusses were 2 feet apart. It was basically the shittiest trusses we have ever seen, and we want the whole world to know that if you can take your business elsewhere, you are better off avoiding Champion Truss. The workmanship is way below par, and they have no integrity or customer service. I hope they lose their stamp as well as their business…
So, when it comes to ordering engineered trusses, make sure you ask local builders who they would recommend. Trusses cost a lot of money, and if you want quality workmanship, you must ask around to save yourself both hassle, grief and aggravation.

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Truss Clips

Friday, February 19th, 2010
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After the walls are built, you have to think about how you are going to attach your trusses. We chose a truss clip that is only available from Florida. It gets buried into the concrete, and the trusses just slip into it later. Very simple. But you MUST mark everything accurately, and make sure you put them in absolutely straight!!!
We marked the walls with a marker, on both sides of where the concrete goes in. That way, there was a better chance of getting the truss clips in straight.
Then, we checked every position with an actual truss clip, to make sure there was no webs or rebar in the way.
Finally, we went around and put clear packing tape on top of each marking. Why? Simply because you won’t be able to see the marks if (or should I say WHEN) you mess up the top of the wall with concrete.
Pouring walls is extremely messy. So we covered our markings, and after smoothing the top of the walls with trowels, we simply peeled off the tape and stuck the truss clips in.
Often, you don’t have a lot of time before the concrete goes off, so it is important to work quickly. Make sure the truss clips are in straight!!!
Remember, it is all set in stone.

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ICF walls

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
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ICF Walls

ICF Walls

After filling the stemwall, we put ice and watershield around the outside and had it backfilled. Then, we started building the walls. Make sure you mark where all the windows and doors go, and remember to calculate for putting wooden bucks in.

We made the window bucks out of 2×12 lumber on the sides and tops. On the bottom of the buck, we simply put 2 pieces of 2×4 across with a space in the middle, so you can easily fill concrete under the windows. The opening in the ICF should be the rough opening of your window + 3″ in both directions. That way, your finished opening, inside the buck, will be the exact rough opening for the window.

If you don’t use pressure treated lumber, the buck has to be covered on the outside with either felt paper or ice and water shield so that it isn’t in contact with the concrete. To ensure that the buck stays in place, we put long screws into the sides. These screws will grab the concrete when the walls are filled, and it will be nice and solid. In addition, the bucks also have to be braced with pieces of OSB that are attached to the ICF. This bracing comes off after the pour. You might also consider bracing the inside of the buck in the middle with a temporary 2×4, especially if the window is bigger than a 4×4 opening.

Again, we put rebar on every row and form lock on every other row, as well as horizontal rebar every two feet. Finish the walls off by cutting all the knobs off the top row, foaming all the seams and bracing everything that could pull apart!

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Calculate Concrete for ICF

Saturday, February 13th, 2010
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Calculating the concrete for ICF is not difficult. Basically, every 8′ block with 6″ spacing inside takes 6cu ft of concrete. So, if you measure your linear feet, you are using 6cu ft of concrete every 8′ (18″ inches high).

This measurement is pretty accurate, so once you figure out the numbers, I usually add 1/2 yard for waste.

When we poured the stem wall, we used a conveyor belt truck. (Those things are big, so make sure your driveway is wide enough!)

There are many advantages to using a conveyor belt truck. First of all, he has a very long reach, and can easily put a sock on, which drastically reduces the mess. Second, when he stops the flow of concrete, it doesn’t just keep falling out of the sock. And third, there is no waste!

After pouring the concrete, make sure you run around and check if the walls are plum! Now is the time (before the concrete goes off), to adjust the plumness by screwing the blue ICF bracing in or out. It is a bit stressful, so make sure you have enough people on site for cleaning and fetching things.

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